Dil Sarker, one of our Technical Chemists, has been in the lab formulating with a variety of Clariant’s Plantasens range to show us what’s possible – and the formulation he’s developed is truly Plantasens-tastic!
Imagine an anti-ageing cream that helps to keep the skin protected from the ravages of time and pollution using a combination of natural ingredients and cutting edge chemistry – and you get Dil’s Mediterranean Miracle Cream!
This cream is light, easily absorbed, smells like holidays and even helps keep actives stable until they reach the skin for maximum benefit!
Plantasens
Clariant’s Plantasens range combines innovation and natural ingredients to produce plant-based actives, multi-functional emulsifiers, and a broad selection of emollients (ranging from vegetable oils and natural butters to alternatives to silicones, petrolatum and lanolin) to help brands and formulators to develop more natural cosmetic products.
The Plantasens range consists of 14 naturally derived ingredients, of which we’ve used 6 in this formulation – particularly the olive-based ingredients.
Olive LD, Olive Active HP, and Olive Squalene provide UV filters to help protect skin from sun damage which is one of the causes skin aging.
VitiSpheres
VitiSpheres by Clariant is an innovative carrier system to protect actives until they are applied to the skin.The VitiSphere case dissolves slowly releasing the active directly into the skin.
Once on the skin the spheres create an ultra-thin film preventing transepidermal water loss allowing actives to penetrate deep into the skin.
There are grades suitable for oil or water based formulations, they are easy to formulate with, and suitable to carry a wide variety of actives as an efficacy booster.
In this formulation we’ve used VitiSpheres R8 which delivers pure Retinol (vitamin A) to the skin, and VitiSpheres ID 0.5 which delivers Idebenone to the skin – a co-enzyme used for skin firming.
Ingredient List
Ingredient | % |
Plantasens Natural Emulsifier HE10 (Sucrose Polystearate, Cetearyl Alcohol & Olea Europea Oil Unsaponifiables
Chemlink/Clariant |
5.0 |
Plantasens VP R15 (Ricinus communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Copernicia cerifera Wax
Chemlink/Clariant |
1.0 |
LINK CCT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
Chemlink |
2.0 |
Plantasens Abyssinian oil (Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil)
Chemlink |
3.0 |
Plantasens Olive LD (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables)
Chemlink/Clariant |
1.0 |
Plantasens Olive Active HP (Olea Europea Oil Unsaponifiables)
Chemlink/Clariant |
0.5 |
Plantasens Olive Squalene (Squalene)
Chemlink/Clariant |
0.5 |
Mandorlat (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Oil, Hydrolysed Sweet Almond Protein and Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolysed Wheat Protein)
Chemlink/Sinerga |
2.0 |
Nipaguard PO5 (Phenoxyethanol, Piroctone Olamine)
Chemlink/Clariant |
1.0 |
Coconut Paradise N52015 (Parfum)
Chemlink/Carrubba |
0.3 |
Vitispheres R8 (Glycine Soja Oil, Aqua, Glycerin, Cera Alba, Retinol, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ceramide-NP)
Chemlink/Clariant |
5.0 |
VitiSpheres ID 0.5 (Idebenone Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxy decyl Ubiquinone, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid)
Chemlink/Clariant |
0.5 |
Water | To 100 |
Method
- Blend the Link CCT, Abyssinian Oil, Emulsifier HE-10, Olive LD, Olive HP, Olive Squalene and VP R15 together and heat up to about 65C.
- In a separate vessel, add the formulation amount of Water and heat it to 60C.
- Next slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while stirring and homogenise.
- Allow to cool to about 40C and add the Mandorlat, Nipaguard PO5 and Fragrance.
- Homogenise.
- Finally add the Vitispere R8 & Vitisphere ID 0.5 and stir slowly until homogeneous.
- Pack off at circa 30 C
If you’d like to receive a sample of this formulation or would like advice on how you can formulate with any of these innovative ingredients, please contact us and our team will be happy to arrange a meeting.
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